This year for my birthday I decided I wanted to camp at the beach and do some surfing. It's been 7 years since I have surfed in California so it's something that was way overdue. I had a hard time finding a campground since I didn't get on it six months in advanced. The only campground left was at San Onofre, right next to Trestles. On Friday morning we packed up the car and drove out to San Onofre. It took quite a bit longer than I expected to get there, about 10 hours after stopping at the grocery store and getting food. Of course it slowed us down having the surf boards on the roof and we got stopped by Border Patrol by El Centro. When I got pulled over I was pretty mad, especially since I wasn't speeding, but the second I saw a guy in green get out I calmed down and knew it was probably about my boards. He told me my boards we blowing up, even though they were secure. I had been stopping and checking on them every once in a while but now I knew I had to change the way they were mounted. After fixing them I was able to drive a lot faster.
Saturday morning we drove down towards Trestles, parked the cars, and walked to the beach. I had no idea what I was getting into. I went out in the water with my friend Paul and we got separated really fast. I am old and fat, the place was crowded, and I was having trouble getting any good rides. Eventually after a few short rides and hard wipeouts I was duck diving under a wave and lost my board. My board came out from under me, my leash snapped, and I was stuck out there boardless, left to swim in on my own. What I didn't realize was that the beach was really rocky and the tide had gone down. Going back in I cut my foot in a few different places on the rocks, the biggest cut being on the side of my pinkie toe, and I had to scoot in the rest of the way to the shore. I didn't wait for it to stop bleeding to go back in, against everyone's advice since I left a nice pool of blood in the sand. I did a make shift tie up job on my leash and went back out. I don't know what it was but I came down a nice wave perfectly and had my right leg up front but couldn't get my left leg up. This is when I decided I was done for the day. I've learned that surfing isn't like riding a bike. It's gonna take a couple more sessions to get it all back.
After that we just hung out in the campsite the rest of the day. It was a short weekend, way too short. The next day at noon we were on our way back home. A couple days later I woke up from a nap and my sock was stuck to my foot. I tried to get it off but it was fused to the cut on my small toe. I asked Natalie to take a look and she ripped it off. Oh the pain. I had trouble walking for a couple days after that.
Note: No pictures of Adri due to the fact that someone forgot to pack her swimsuit. So she was swimming in her chonies but then decided to strip down and be a nudist. Won't be posting those pictures on here.
Paddling out. According to my family, I looked like a sea turtle out there.
A fire broke out at Camp Pendleton. A couple hours later, just after we left, the beach was ugly. The water was brown within a mile of the shore.
Driving back we took a stop at the sand dunes right before Yuma.
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